Banff, the Rockies & Beyond: My Canadian Adventure

Banff: I wasn't ready for how much I'd love it

My trip began in Banff, and from the moment I arrived I understood why so many people fall completely in love with this place. Rather than following a set itinerary, I had the freedom to explore at my own pace and honestly, that suited Banff perfectly.

I spent time simply wandering through the town, ducking into different bars and restaurants, soaking up the energy of Banff Avenue in the warmth of the summer sun. There's a wonderful balance here between rugged mountain charm and a genuinely lively social scene.

I stayed at the Banff Ptarmigan Inn, which I'd happily recommend. It's well located, comfortable, and the kind of place that feels authentically Banff rather than overly polished.

Mountains, lakes & waterfalls

No visit to Banff is complete without venturing out into the surrounding landscape, and I was fortunate to visit two of the Rockies' most iconic spots: Lake Louise and Emerald Lake.

Lake Louise is one of those places you've seen in photographs a hundred times, and yet nothing quite prepares you for the moment you see it in person. When I visited, the lake was completely frozen and honestly, it was still one of the most breathtaking things I've ever seen. There's a stillness to it that feels almost spiritual, even beneath a layer of ice.

Emerald Lake was the same, frozen over, but absolutely gorgeous. We had lunch right by the water's edge, surrounded by forest and mountains, and the wintry scene made it feel even more dramatic and special. If you're doing a day trip from Banff, making time for both is absolutely worth it.

We also stopped at Shannon Falls on the journey, a dramatic, powerful waterfall that's well worth a short stop.

Rocky Mountaineer: Scenery, strangers & stories

The highlight of my trip, and I say this having done a lot of incredible things, was without question the Rocky Mountaineer rail journey from Banff to Vancouver. I travelled in GoldLeaf Service, and from the moment I stepped on board I understood why this train has such a devoted following.

The service was impeccable. The food was genuinely gourmet: proper multi-course meals, beautifully presented, served as the scenery rolled past the windows. What makes it even more special is that the staff purposely seat you with strangers, so you're instantly thrown into conversation with people you've never met. You might not think much of it at the time, but by the end of the trip you'll have left with so many new friends, hospitality that will spoil you, and scenery you simply can't get enough of.

The journey takes two days, and each day has its own distinct character. Day one is all about mountains and lakes: dramatic Rocky Mountain passes, glacial rivers, and valleys that seem to go on forever. Day two is all about engineering marvels: tunnels bored through mountains and spectacular bridges that cross dizzyingly deep gorges. Both days are extraordinary in completely different ways.

The overnight stop in Kamloops breaks the journey at just the right point, and arriving into Vancouver by train felt like a proper grand arrival. I cannot recommend this experience highly enough. It is genuinely one of the great rail journeys of the world.

Whistler: The holiday within the holiday

From Vancouver we headed to Whistler, and what a place it is. The day began with the Sea to Sky Gondola, a thrilling ride up into the mountains with panoramic views of Howe Sound and the surrounding peaks. At the top, I walked a couple of the shorter trails, which rewarded me with views I genuinely struggled to find words for. There's also a suspension bridge at the summit, a smaller but no less impressive version of the famous Capilano, which adds a little heart-in-mouth excitement to proceedings.

The day ended in Whistler Village, and I fell for it immediately. It's beautifully designed: car-free, walkable, lined with restaurants, bars, and boutique shops, with the mountains rising dramatically on either side. I've described it to people as the kind of place you'd go on holiday within your holiday, a spot to slow down, breathe, eat well, and simply enjoy being somewhere beautiful.

Vancouver: The city that has absolutely everything

Back in Vancouver, I had two full days to explore the city and it did not disappoint.

My first day was all about seeing the city properly. I joined the Vancouver City Highlights tour, which took in Chinatown, the iconic Totem Poles at Stanley Park, the energy of Downtown Vancouver, and the artisan food paradise of Granville Island. The absolute highlight though was FlyOver Canada, an immersive flight simulation experience that sweeps you across the country's most iconic landscapes. It's genuinely breathtaking and I found myself grinning from ear to ear. I rounded off the day with a leisurely stroll along Coal Harbour, which sets the tone for Vancouver beautifully: water, mountains, seaplanes, and greenery all in one view.

Indeed, a wild day

My final full day in Vancouver was, quite simply, one of the best days of my life.

I joined a whale watching tour out into the Salish Sea, and within a couple of hours we had found a family of seven orcas moving together through the water. To watch these animals in the wild, so powerful, so graceful, is an experience that's almost impossible to put into words. It felt like an extraordinary privilege.

That wasn't all. Throughout the trip we spotted sea lions hauled up on rocks and bald eagles circling overhead. The whole experience had that rare quality of reminding you just how wild and vast and alive the natural world is.

We finished the day at the Capilano Suspension Bridge, and after the scale of the Salish Sea, it was the perfect way to come back to earth, quite literally. The bridge, suspended 70 metres above the Capilano River, is as thrilling as its reputation suggests. The surrounding park is beautiful, and there's plenty to explore beyond the bridge itself.

Final thoughts

I've been home for a while now and I'm still thinking about it. That's the thing about Canada. It doesn't leave you quickly.

The scenery is something else entirely. I knew it would be beautiful, but I wasn't prepared for just how relentlessly, overwhelmingly beautiful it would be. Around every corner, on every stretch of that train journey, at every frozen lakeside, it just kept giving. You never quite get used to it.

But what surprised me most were the people. Canadians are genuinely, warmly, disarmingly friendly. From strangers on the Rocky Mountaineer who felt like old friends by day two, to every person we crossed paths with along the way, there's a kindness there that stays with you.

I came home already wanting to go back. And I think that says everything.