Bears, Glaciers, and Railroads: My September Journey Through Alaska

Memorable and awe-inspiring: an encounter with grizzly bears  

My journey began with one of the most remote and powerful wildlife experiences of my life: watching grizzly bears in Lake Clark National Park. I flew in by bush plane, landing on a stretch of beach with nothing but sky, trees, and tidal flats. September is a magical time. The bears are hyper-focused on fishing and fattening up for winter, which means they’re active, visible, and less distracted by humans. I watched in hushed awe as massive grizzlies lumbered through creeks, jaws snapping at silver salmon. One stood just yards away, shaking off water like a dog, completely indifferent to my presence. It wasn’t a zoo – it was a real, raw, and deeply humble experience. 

Seward and Denali: a journey to stir the senses 

I rented a car and drove the scenic Seward Highway, often ranked among the most beautiful drives in the U.S. The road hugs the Turnagain Arm, where I was lucky enough to spot beluga whales surfacing in the silvery waters just off the coast. It felt surreal: whales, right there by the roadside.  

Seward itself was a charming harbour town with fresh seafood, glacier views, and easy access to Kenai Fjords National Park. I took a short cruise that skirted the dramatic coastline, where I saw sea otters floating on their backs, bald eagles circling overhead, and remnants of ancient ice clinging to cliffs. 

From Seward, I returned to Anchorage and boarded the Alaska Railroad northbound to Denali. This wasn’t just transportation; it was an experience. The train’s glass-domed cars offered panoramic views of flaming tundra, golden birch forests, and distant snow-capped peaks. It was like watching a nature documentary unfold in real time. 

Glacier landing adventure: cold, crisp and captivating  

For the grand finale, I returned to Anchorage for something I had always dreamed of – a helicopter ride with a glacier landing. Lifting off into the sky, the city shrank behind us as the Chugach Mountains rose in front. The ice then appeared – vast, brilliant blue, and ancient. The helicopter touched down on a living glacier, and stepping out onto it was like setting foot on another planet. The silence was immense. The ice beneath my boots cracked and shifted subtly, alive in its own slow language. I scooped up glacier water with my hands and drank it – crisp, cold, and clean like Alaska itself. 

If you’re thinking about Alaska in September, you must go. It’s quieter, moodier, and richer in colour and wildlife activity. You’ll find solitude but also connection to nature, to the wild, to something deeper in yourself. I came for the bears and the glaciers – I left with far more.